suspension?

[blownstang]

I will be having the suspension done on my car in the spring. I already purchased steeda sport springs/balljoints/bumpsteer kit, and MM lower control arms. I am little confused on which shocks/struts to go with. Do I need to go with the 87-93 shocks/struts? I guess the regular 99-04 HP's are just stock replacements? Also, does the bumpsteer kit lower the front end another .5"? Are caster/camber plates necessary with these springs? If so, I will go with MM's.

[01Bullitt]

All I know is get CC plates.

[Trevor04GT]

go ahead a grab a set of CC plates. get the MM ones, they are great. youll want to get Fox Body shocks and struts for the car being lowered. for alot of drag, get the lakewoods, for street/strip/auto x get the Tokico D specs. they are sick as hell. im debating whether to get the d specs or strange 10 ways. adjustibles are the shit. but yah, get fox shocks and struts

[Cobra4me]

I will be having the suspension done on my car in the spring. I already purchased steeda sport springs/balljoints/bumpsteer kit, and MM lower control arms. I am little confused on which shocks/struts to go with. Do I need to go with the 87-93 shocks/struts? I guess the regular 99-04 HP's are just stock replacements? Also, does the bumpsteer kit lower the front end another .5"? Are caster/camber plates necessary with these springs? If so, I will go with MM's.the bumpsteer does not lower the car.

[blownstang]

the bumpsteer does not lower the car.

That's what i thought, but i heard from some people that the bumpsteer will drop the front end a little more than if just springs were used.

[Niehaus5oh]

^i doubt it... i may be wrong, but i'm pretty sure a bumpsteer kit angles a few of the steering pieces to more of a stock height so its not at as much of a funny angle...

[87ttop_stang]

^ As far as the struts/shocks, I just had a set of D-specs installed, and like Trevor said, they are amazing!

[Cobra4me]

Quote from Stang Suspension concerning the ford racing bumpsteer kit (which is what I have on my car)

The Ford Racing Bumpsteer Kit will help correct steering geometry on lowered Mustangs. It allows you to adjust the tierod end height, to put it back into specifications after lowering your Mustang.

Bumpsteer is that wandering/self steer effect that you get when going over bumps or hard turns in the road.

[blownstang]

Thanks for the replies, but no one answered if I need to use the 87-93 hp's? Does anyone know? One guy on another forum said that MM recommend the 87-93's on lowered 99-04's.

[blownstang]

Thanks for the replies, but no one answered if I need to use the 87-93 hp's? Does anyone know? One guy on another forum said that MM recommend the 87-93's on lowered 99-04's.

Just checked MM's site and they do recommend the 87-93 Tokico's for lowered 94-04's.

[SCARY 4.6]

The Lakewood 50/50's on the rear are what I'm running (along with Eibach pro kit lowering springs) and I'm definitely happy with them. The rear rides a little stiff but definitely plant the ass end into the ground when you stomp on the gas. I noticed a big difference in traction.

Here's an article taken from Mach Performance parts that explains the use and advantage of the bump steer kit...
Definition of bumpsteer: Bump-steer is a change in toe* angle caused by the suspension moving up or down. Bump-steer is built into the geometry of the suspension and steering system, and has nothing to do with turning the steering wheel. The effect of bump-steer is for the wheel to toe-in or toe-out when the suspension moves up or down. This toe change or "steering" occurs any time the suspension moves, whether it is from body roll, brake-dive, or hitting a bump in the road. Bump steer is undesirable because the suspension is steering the car instead of the driver.

Cause of bumpsteer: The front wheels do not move directly straight up or down when the car hits a bump. Instead, the wheel follows an arc, or curving path, that pushes the wheel slightly inward (towards the centerline of the car) or outward (away from the car) in response to vertical wheel movement. The outer tie-rod (which connects the steering rack to the wheel) also moves in-and-out in an arc as it moves up and down. If the rate which the outer tie-rod arcs in or out does not match the rate the wheel moves in or out, the wheel will be turned by the tie-rod. This is bumpsteer. The center point of the arc traveled by the wheel (known as the instant-center) is controlled by the location and angle of the moving suspension links. This point moves as the ride height changes. In contrast, the arc of the outer tie-rod is controlled by the position of the steering rack, which is fixed. In order to eliminate bumpsteer, both the length and the center point of the two arcs must be the same. However, since the instant center moves with ride height, bumpsteer cannot be eliminated throughout the entire range of suspension travel. Therefore suspension designers concentrate on minimizing bumpsteer within the range of movement closest to factory ride height. Changing the ride height or other suspension components may move the suspension outside this narrow "optimized" window.

To fix a bumpsteer problem, you need to alter the height of outer tie-rod relative to the steering rack. Small changes in this relationship can be made with offset rack bushings. Making big changes requires adjustable tie-rod ends, also known as a bumpsteer kit. * Toe: Toe-in or Toe-out describes the alignment of the front wheels relative to each other, the same way you would describe your feet. For example, toe-in means they are closer together at the front than the rear

[DropTopStang]

thanks for posting that up man....im getting a bumpsteer kit pretty soon because I have some serious bump steer problems